Block printing has been a standard method used in traditional Indian textile forever. Nearly every region in India has some variations of block printing as a part of its culture. A Summer in India is incomplete without your go-to primitive prints on breezy and delicate cotton.
However, there is one that is celebrated the most today in contemporary fashion all over the world- The Bagru Block Print.
The roots of this art form trace back to the quaint township of Bagru not too far from the city of Jaipur in Rajasthan. It is believed to be born about 500 years ago when the Chippa community settled in the area. The Chiapas of Bagru are known to be the pioneers of this craft. This skill has been passed on to generations after generations in the community.
The Bagru block printing generally involves motifs inspired by nature, such as flowers, tendrils, animal figures, Jaal print, and some geometric prints. These are done in colors such as blue derived from indigo, red from Indian madder, black from scrap iron and horseshoes, grey from alum, and yellow from turmeric. The dyes used in the process are traditionally naturally derived. However, nowadays, some artisans use synthetic dyes for bright colors.
Artisans begin with light-colored cotton in shades of white cream or yellow. Then, the fabric is soaked in clay, water, and some non-toxic chemicals to soften it. The material is left out to dry in the sun, and once it is ready, the cloth is laid down on a surface to print.
Blocks used in printing are made out of Sheesham or Rohida and are chiseled with the designs by hand. The motifs are stamped onto the fabric by dipping the block in the dye. Artisans carefully emboss the print onto the material to ensure that the design is perfectly aligned each time. Interestingly, the slight imperfections in alignment are what genuinely give Bagru Block art its natural flare.
Earlier Bagru print was primarily used in making traditional attires such as lehengas, kurtas, etc. Nowadays, its use is unlimited. It has taken over indo-western fashion. The boho-chic aesthetic is incomplete without Bagru block print. Not just in clothes and apparel, this traditional art is also seen in home decor- couches, bedsheets, cushion covers, etc.
What started 500 years ago in a small village is now an irreplaceable part of the Indian fashion industry. Garments made in Bagru bring grace and comfort to the wearer. It is and will forever remain the nation’s favorite wardrobe staple.